So, here are some sleepless thoughts on cycling two of the great European Rivers, the Rhine and the Donau (aka Danube).

Neither one was particularly hard, and in fact probably down right easy on a e-bike. In deed a number of the guest houses had electrical outlets all set for them. At times on the Donau, it was easier to count the non e-bikes as they were far fewer in number than the e-bikes.

Excepting the climb between the two rivers, the hard parts had more to do with wind and road surfaces which were perfect in Austria and the opposite in Hungary.

If I had to choose one particular part, it would be the Austrian Danube section to Vienna. Truely iconic with superb scenery, great paths, wonderful guest houses, bicycle campgrounds and lots of beer gardens. The only thing missing was Julie Andrews singing about the hills being live with the sound of music.I’d rate that section alongside northern Norway as my two top cycle touring areas – Although I chose each for very different reasons! However that’s not being fair to the rest of the trip as all parts were great. That is until the approaches to Budapest. So!

Best Bridge

Best Meal

Best Campground

Best Moment

Next – back across Holland and England to London

At Esztergom I thought about taking a short cut cross country to Budapest, but 5 km into it I felt I was somehow cheating so turned back and kept going along the Danube. Not very long afterwards, the usual thunderstorm closed in and while sheltering, I met an Aussie who’d started out from Budapest. He’d seriously underestimated the distances and was going to have difficulty making his destination before evening. Anyway, as it had taken him about 3 hours to get to where we met, I decided to push on.

Well, one of the websites did mention that the Hungarian section could be a little bit rough and wasn’t necessarily suitable for all types of cyclists. I ended up cycling much of the way standing up, such was the jarring and bouncing from the “path”. Then as I neared Budapest, the path ceased to exist and i was in a stream of Sunday afternoon motorists keen to speed home. But the time I finished the journey, I had sore, frayed at the edges and ready to quit Hungary.

On the plus side the condition of the roads did put to rest any lingering thoughts of going beyond Budapest. Anyway tomorrow is a new day.

I’m now in Bratislava, 6 years ago I took this photo Alex and Liz with a Statue of Stalin. I might see if Uncle Joe is still here.

This time, my accomodation is a little less grand than a River cruise Boat. The Hotel is in the complex of large Apartment Blocks, circa Soviet Era, that are on the other side of the river.

With each day as I move East, the culture, the landscape, language, basically everything slowly changes. I’d just about gotten used to understanding German, but now the language is Slovakian, the alphabet has new letters and supermarkets different food, back to Google Translate again! Soon it’ll be Hungarian I need to get my head around.

I should arrive in Budapest in about 3 days and that is probably as far as I’ll go in this direction.

Last time here, it was all about hi brow culture – see the opera house, listen to the Blue Danube etc etc. This time though it was about the Prater. Also sad to say goodbye to Tommy and Teresa. After passing and re-passing each other for 3 days, we ended out at the same B&Bs three times! and so travelled the 8 day from Ulm. They go back home to Ulm and I go onto Bratislava. Why the way, that’s my beer not Teresa’s.

Even the now daily thunderstorm only caught up briefly

It was funny when I’d pass places and think, I remember that from when we cruised past 6 years ago. Sure enough, this evening when I looked at photos from back then I found some ‘duplicates’ The main different was the time of year – autumn vs late spring.

Unfortunately all good things come to an end and the path into Linz, beside an autobahn, against screaming traffic and a strong hot wind, did nothing to make me warm to the city of Linz. I didn’t really care for it last time so I kept on going.

Twice so far this trip I’ve gone a pedal push too far. This was the second time. As the afternoon drew on, the wind increased and my pace slowed. Google maps would tell me it was maybe an hour and 20 minutes to my next point. My legs told me 2 hours. At least the thunderstorms managed to avoid me – just. There are no photos of the second half of the day as my only view was limited to the 20 metres of asphalt in front of my bike.

But even the bad times stop and I ended up having a great supper in the backyard of a hotel (resturant wasn’t open) but the host put on food for myself and two other travellers. By the way Thressia (age 10) had just cycled 110 kilometres today. That put things in perspective. She and her father were cycling from Ulm to Vienna.

One benefit of the tour groups is that I didn’t need to read up about the sights, churches or the last great flood. I just evesdropped from one group to another.

Then it was onwards into Austria. Who could complain when you have bike paths like this?

I felt a rather naughty and evil joy when i came across an e-biker whose battery had died somewhat far from town. It would be interesting to see how e-bikes have changed bicycling along the Danube. I suspect quite a lot as probably 70 per cent of the cyclists I saw were on e-bikes.

Tonight I’m camped right next to the Danube, just 30 is outside of Passau. It’s a campground run by volunteers Andy geared to cyclists – yeah! Across the river is a river cruise boat that’s probably headed to Regensburg later.

Anyway, here’s what my little campsite looks like. Cruise Boat is under the bridge. Time for a cup of tea.

The next dilemma had to do with making diversion. It had to do with a certain foot bridge that had been inspiring me for the last few months. It spanned the Mainz Canal and I’d wanted to cycle it ever since I’d started thinking about this trip.

On the basis that I’d only be here one (actually second time) I, of course, made the diversion. I found it quite interesting how these two events gave me both a sense of complete satisfaction and accomplishment.

Next stop was Regensburg, which was full of visitors, so after a coffee, I continued on. I prefer places like this one.

Neuberg was also nice, lovely, tourist picture perfect. but does suffer from a fighter base nearby that could be rather deafening at times.

When waiting for lights or to cross a road, I often get people looking at my bike and saying something in German. I nod with a complete lack of understanding, maybe mumble something like Passau or London, and then we go our own merry way. I suspect its because my bike and panniers are now elegantly and impressively decorated with mud and the occasional bits of forest. I keep thinking I should clean everything but then again, all would be dirty again within the hour.

By the way, for the price of a two bedroom Auckland house you could probably get this one with money to spare for an extension to the Patio.